Index. Botswana 150 Brazil 2, 14, 27 Brazilian National Confederation of Industries 261

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1 Index Note: Entries under textiles & clothing, clothing sector and textile sector have been kept to a minimum, and readers should refer to the different countries, companies and policies for a more detailed discussion. Abuja Treaty on African Economic Community 170 Africa 25 7, 35 exports 25, 34 GDP 26 wage rates 27 see also Ghana; Mauritius African Caribbean and Pacific (ACP) countries 3, 5, 12, 197 African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) 3, 32, 170, 210 and employment and Mauritius T&C industry 170 1, 173 AfricStyle 227 Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) 3, 12, 72, 261, 287 post-atc trade opportunities Akosombo Textile Limited , 227 Ambattur Clothing Ltd Apparel International Mart (AIM) Apparel Parks for Exports (APE) 105, 109 Argentina 2, 14 Argentine Industrial Union 261 artificial fibres 97 Arvind Mills Asia 12, 23 5, 34 exports 23 GDP 24 wage rates 24 Asuncion Treaty 286 Bangladesh 12, 98 exports 13 Barbados 12 biotechnology 10 Board for Industrial & Financial Reconstruction (BIFR) 103, 104 Botswana 150 Brazil 2, 14, 27 Brazilian National Confederation of Industries 261 CAD/CAM 161, 166, 175 California Link 228 Cambodia 98 capability building 15 capacity building 30 technology capacity utilization 207 Caribbean 27 30, 35 exports 28 GDP 29 wage rates 29 Caribbean Basin Initiative 3, 32 carpet manufacture 102 case studies China clothing sector textile sector Ghana India Mauritius Uruguay clothing sector textile sector cellulosic 102 central value added tax (CENVAT) 110 Changshan Textile Group Co., Ltd 4, 93 4 channelling savings chemical technology 63 Chile 10 China 1, 2, 3 4, 12, 14, 37 96, 98 Agreement on Textiles and Clothing

2 292 Index China continued case studies Changshan Textile Group Co., Ltd 4, 93 4 Hongdou Group Co., Ltd 4, 78 82, 83 Ningbo Veken Lo., Ltd 59 Shandong Weiqiao Pioneering Group Co., Ltd 87 92, 94 Shijiazhuang Changshan Textile Group Co., Ltd 84 7 Weiqiao Pioneering Group Co., Ltd 4, 92 Youngor Group Co., Ltd 4, 73 8, 82 3 ZhenJiang Textile Co., Ltd 59 cloth tickets 44 competitiveness cotton production 113 development of T&C industry s s 45 7 twenty-first century 47 domestic market share 39, 40 export tax rebate 65 exports 13, 38, 45, 47, 65 8 promotion policies 68 quota system and reform 66 8 subsidies 65 6 financial policies asset restructuring 60 1 bad debts written-off and debt-equity exchange 61 spindle reduction subsidies and discount loans 60 global market share 46, 47 8 government role in T&C industry green trade barrier 72 3 imports 38, 47 industrial policies s s 58 9 twenty-first century 59 institutional reform labour productivity 39, 41 market share multi-fibre arrangement 71 2 output 38 volume changes 39 personnel education and training 69 productive elements clothing sector 42 textile sector 42 RCA 48, 52 5 clothing sector 56 textile sector 55 technological development 61 5 acceleration in 61 2 application of ICTs 64 fibre material technologies 62 3 fibre processing technology 63 4 implementation of international standards 64 5 trade competitive index value added 39, 41 China National Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC) 70 accession to WTO 70 1 clothing sector 4, 21 2 China 43, exports 2, 16 17, imports 154, 254, 255 RCA 56 revealed comparative advantage 53 trade competitive index 49, 51 Uruguay 232, , Clothing Services Centre (CSC) coir 119 Colombia 10 Common External Tariff 267, Common Market for Eastern and Southern Africa (COMESA) 158, 165, 170 Compagnie Mauricienne de Textiles (CMT) 150, 173, Compendium of Textile Statistics 98 competitive advantage 97 competitiveness 10, 11 China Ghana India TCI see trade competitive index Uruguay , Comprehensive Economic Cooperation and Partnership Agreement (CECPA) 170 COMTRADE 14, 33 Costa Rica 2, 14 cotton 102 world production 113

3 Index 293 Cotton Corporation of India 105 coverage ratio 242, 244 credit assistance 264 customer-centred approach Darga, Amédée 169 debt restructuring 162 Decent Touch 228 delocalization 12 deregulation 11 design 248 developing countries 11, 12 exports 13 development 11 DGCIS 98 DINACYT programme 8, 273 disinvestment 103, 104, 107 domestic market China 39, 40 Ghana Uruguay 249 Dominican Republic 2 decline of T&C industry 14 E-Marketplace 165 Eco-Bank 214 eco-labelling 99 Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS) 196, 210 economic growth 11 Economic Partnership Agreement (EPA) 213 education and training see training employment 98 and AGOA Ghana 203 India 103 Uruguay clothing sector textile sector Enterprise Mauritius 155, 164, 175 enterprise resource plannning 64 environmental standards 99 European Economic Community 12 Export Development and Investment Fund (EDIF) 210, 214 export insurance 268 export processing zones (EPZs) 143 5, 157, 213 credit lines to 162 stagnation of 145 export promotion policies 47 China 68 Ghana India Mauritius Uruguay 250, export tax rebate 47 exports 2 3, 12, 14 China 13, 38, 45, 47 clothing sector 2, 16 17, decline in 14 first tier countries 15, 16 India 97, , Mauritius 151 3, 191 second tier countries 17, 18 textile sector 2, 14, third tier countries 23, 25, 28 Uruguay 238, 241 3, 244, farming 10 FDI see foreign direct investment (FDI) FERA see Foreign Exchange Regulation Act (FERA) fibre material technology 62 3 fibre processing technology 63 4 first tier countries 2, 3, 15 17, 34 5 exports 15, 16 GDP 15, 16 wage rates fixed asset investment 46 Floreal Knitwear Ltd 150, 173, 177, foreign direct investment (FDI) 27 India 107, 109 Mauritius Foreign Exchange Regulation Act (FERA) 103 Foreign Trade Statistics of India 98 Gabon 171 GDP see gross domestic product (GDP) General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) 3, 196 Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) 170, 197 Germany,

4 294 Index Ghana 1, 3, 6 7, capacity utilization 207 case studies AfricStyle 227 Akosombo Textile Limited , 227 California Link 228 Decent Touch 228 Ghana Textile Printing 219 Global Garments 227 MaaGrace Garments 227 Network Knitwear Fabrics 227 Oak Brook Ghana Ltd 227 Pagbo Kente Village , 227 Premier Quality 228 Printex Limited Company , 227 Sleek Garments Export 220 1, 228 TV Kente Weaving Enterprise 227 Clothing Technology Training Center 213 decline in production capacity 222 delays in delivery times EU trade relations export zones 7 Import Substitution Policy 199 international trade regimes Management Development and Productivity Institute 199 Presidential Special Initiatives , 215 price competitiveness in domestic market product profile skills acquisition 221 Structural Adjustment Programme 196 T&C industry employment share 203 history output 201, 202 production growth rates 208 structure of 199 trade performance 216 trade policy value added 200, 203 4, 205 tariffs and trade technology adoption technology capacity building technology transfer 206, 221 trade liberalization US trade relations VAT/NHIL levy 7 Ghana Association of Fashion Designers 195 Ghana Business Bureau 199 Ghana Export Promotion Action Plan Ghana National Tailors and Dressmakers Association 195 Ghana Standards Board 206 Ghana Textile Printing 219 Global Garments 227 global market share China 46, 47 8 India Global Production Network 176 8, 279, 281, 285 global standards 99 see also international trade rules Global Value Chain 176 8, 279, 281, 285 Gokaldas Exports Ltd Golden Age of Business , green trade barrier 72 3 gross domestic product (GDP) 2, 30 first tier countries 15, 16 second tier countries 18, 19 third tier countries 24, 26, 29 GTAP 6 99 handicrafts 119 Handloom 102 high oriented yarn 61 high-technology sectors 10 Hirchman, Albert 201 Hisud SA 8, employment, sales, costs and exports 280 international trade rules 281 learning process 281 main features 280 production profile 280 technology 280 trade unions 281 Hong Kong 2, 12, 15, 33, 98

5 Index 295 Hongdou Group Co., Ltd 4, 78 82, 83 application of information technology 82 brand strategy and culture 81 2 innovation 80 1 management philosophy quality management 81 wages performance link 81 ICICI Bank 99 ICT see Information and Communication Technology (ICT) imports China 38, 47 clothing sector 154, 254, 255 India , Mauritius textile sector 123 6, Uruguay , 254, 255 Index of Technological Progress 30 India 1, 2, 12, 14, case studies Ambattur Clothing Ltd Arvind Mills Gokaldas Exports Ltd Indo Rama Synthetics clothing sector 5, 97 policy measures RCA 56 trade competitive index 51 competitiveness export promotion policies advanced licensing scheme 108 duty drawback scheme 108 exports 97, annual growth 118 foreign direct investment 109 Growth Centres Scheme 107 human resources development 109 imports , raw materials 125 ready-made garments 126 semi-raw materials 125 yarns and fabrics 125 literature review 98 9 market share 12 13, 97, 134 Ministry of Textiles 101, 102, 103, 104, 106, 114, 122 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) 109 National Renewal Fund 107 National Textile Corporation 104 policy reforms and initiatives 107 RCA 53, 54, 56 Sick Industrial Companies (Special Provisions) Act, (1985) 104 small-scale industries 106 spindle capacity 101 Statement of Industrial Policy (1991) 101 Textile Development and Regulation Order (1992) 101 Textile Policy (1985) textile sector 5, 97 employment 103 export performance global market share history imports policy measures production trends RCA 55 structure trade competitive index 51 see also individual policy initiatives Indian Ocean Commission 170 Indian Ocean Rim Association for Regional Cooperation 170 Indo Rama Synthetics Indonesia 1, 12, 14, 98 per capita income 31 RCA 53, 54 clothing sector 56 textile sector 55 trade competitive index 50 clothing sector 51 textile sector 51 Industrial Development Bank of India (IDBI) 104 industry structure Ghana 199 India information and communication technology (ICT) China 64, 76, 82 Uruguay 266 7

6 296 Index innovation 10, 11, 13, 77, 80 1, 92 3, International Employers Organization (IEO) 261 International Labour Organization (ILO) 261 international standards 64 5 international trade rules 13, 34, 168 9, 279, 281, 283 4, 285 companies perceptions of 181 invention 11 investment fixed asset 46 Mauritius Uruguay 250 see also foreign direct investment investment and promotion policies China 68 Ghana India 108 Mauritius Uruguay 250 Israel 2, 14 Italy 10 Jamaica 12 Japan Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO) 52 jute 102 3, 119 Kaldor, Nicholas 201 Kenya 1, 10, 12 knitted fabrics 101 knotless yarn 62 knowledge-intensive production 10 Korea 2, 12, 98 clothing sector 21 2 decline of T&C industry 14, 20 exports 19 21, 30 GDP 21 textile sector 22 wage rates 21, 22 Kurt Salmon Associates 166 Kuwait 12 Labour Compression Index 48 labour costs 247 labour force 247 labour productivity China 39, 41, 42 Uruguay 243, 245 6, labour regulation 100 labour standards 179 Lamy Initiative 142 Latin America 12, 27 30, 35 exports 28 GDP 29 wage rates 29 Lesotho 150, 172 lesser developed beneficiary country status 151, 210 Lewis, Arthur 201 Lomé and Cotonou Convention 3, 7, 12, 32, 145, 152, 197, 198, 212 MaaGrace Garments 227 Macao 2, 15, 33 macroeconomic indicators 183 Madagascar 150 1, 172 Malaysia 2, 14, 33 man-made textiles 117 market share China India 12 13, 97, 134, 138 Mauritius 3, 5, 12, A Guide for Foreign Investors 157 Board of Investment 167 case studies clothing sector boom in 146 exports 152 imports 154 Clothing Services Centre (CSC) Compagnie Mauricienne de Textiles (CMT) 150, 173, current state of T&C industry effect of AGOA 170 1, 173 Export Processing Zone Development Authority (EPZDA) export processing zones growth of stagnation of 145 exports 151 3, 191 European market main destinations US market 152

7 Index 297 Floreal Knitwear Ltd 150, 173, 177, foreign direct investment GDP 147 government policies companies perceptions of 180 export promotion financial institutional response to international trade rules technology High Powered Committee (HPC) on Textile and Clothing 159 history of T&C industry imports Industrial Expansion Act (1993) 158 investment schemes macroeconomic indicators 183 National Equity Fund 162 relocation 150 1, 172 Shibani Knitting Company Limited 173, Socota Textile Mills 173, SWOT analysis 186 Textile Modernization Fund 163 Textile Sub Fund 163 Working Capital Scheme 163 Mauritius Chamber of Commerce and Industry (MCCI) 155 Mauritius Export Processing Zone Association (MEPZA) 155, 160, 166 Mauritius International Apparel and Textile Exhibition (MIATEX) 164 Meade Report 144 MEDIA 159 Mercosur 243, , 256 Mexico 1, 2, 14 MFA see Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA) MIDA (Mauritius Industrial Development Authority) 164 Middle East 23 5, 34 exports 23 GDP 24 wage rates 24 minimum export prices 237, 271 minimum support price 105 MODVAT 104 Monopolies and Restrictive Trade Practices (MTRP) 103, 104 Mozambique 150, 172 Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA) 1, 3, 12, 71 2, 98, 122, 197, 212 dismantling of 147 post-mfa trade opportunities 5, 98, 105 6, 122, 126 8, 178, 181 Namibia 172 National Investment Bank 214 national policies China 55 9 India Mauritius Uruguay natural fibres 97 coir 119 jute 102 3, 119 Nepal 98 Net Export Index 48 Network Knitwear Fabrics 227 niche markets 178 non-integrated spinning 102 Norway 10 Oak Brook Ghana Ltd 227 output China 38 Ghana 201, 202 see also exports Pagbo Kente Village , 227 Pakistan 98 cotton production 113 Paraguayan Industrial Union 261 partially oriented yarn 102 Paylana SA 8, employment, sales, costs and exports international trade rules 279 learning process 278 main features production profile 277 technology 278 trade unions 279

8 298 Index Pelsa Internacional SA 8, employment, sales, costs and exports international trade rules learning process 283 production profile 282 technology 283 trade unions 284 Philippines 10, 98 pioneer status enterprises 158 policies export promotion see export promotion policies investment and promotion see investment and promotion policies national see national policies polynomials 15, 19 20, 26 7 post-atc trade opportunities post-mfa trade opportunities 5, 98, 105 6, 122, 126 8, 178, 181 power looms 101, 102, 105 preferential trade zones 170 premier quality 228 Presidential Special Initiatives Printex Limited Company , 227 product diversification , 248 product structure upgrading 46 protectionism 2 public sector enterprises 104 quotas 13, 66 8, 99, 106 elimination of 106, 110 RCA see revealed comparative advantage ready-made garments , 122 reference prices 237, 271 regional orientation index 242 Relative Export Performance Index see Revealed Comparative Advantage relocation 150 1, 172 revealed comparative advantage 48, 52 5 clothing sector 56 textile sector 55 Rule of Origin 153 second tier countries 2, 3, 14, 17 22, 34 5 exports 17, 18, 19 GDP 18, 19 wage rates 20, 31 2 Senegal 172 Seychelles 171 Shandong Weiqiao Pioneering Group Co., Ltd 87 92, 94 development trajectory 90 1 economic strength 91 external orientation activities 91 2 history 87 8 influence in regional economic development 91 innovation initiatives 92 3 performance product profile 88 9 production and business Shibani Knitting Company Limited 173, Shijiazhuang Changshan Textile Group Co., Ltd 84 7 development and growth 84 5 global trade 86 7 management strategies and skill advancement 86 performance 85 product profile 85 Sick Industrial Companies Act (SICA) 103, 107 silk 100, 117 Singapore 1, 12, 14, 15, 33 Sirfil SA 8, employment, sales, costs and exports 284 international trade rules 285 learning process 285 production profile 284 technology Sleek Garments Export 220 1, 228 small and medium-sized enterprises 158 Socota Textile Mills 173, soils, knowledge of 10 South Africa 171 Southern African Development Community (SADC) 165, 170 Southern Common Market (Mercosur-Mercado Comun del Sur) specific import rights 272 spinning mills, incentives to 172

9 Index 299 Sri Lanka 98 standard input-output norms (SION) 108 strategic local enterprises 158 T-shirts 154, 175 Taiwan 10, 33 tariffs 11, Golden Age of Business tax exemption 264 tax holidays 157 tax rebates 268 technology 13, 160 2, 204 5, capacity building chemical 63 fibre material 62 3 fibre processing 63 4 Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC) 110 technology transfer 206, 221 Technology Upgradation Fund 104, 106, 108 temporary admission regime 268 textile & clothing industry 1, 3, exports see exports imports see imports Textile Centres Infrastructure Development Scheme (TCIDS) 105, 109 Textile Development and Regulation Order 101 Textile Emergency Support Team (TEST) 166 Textile Modernisation Fund 104 textile policy 100 textile sector 18, 53 China 42, 55, decline of 22 exports 2, 14, Hong Kong 51, 55 imports 123 6, India 5, 97, Korea 22 RCA 53, 55 revealed comparative advantage 55 trade competitive index 49, 51 Uruguay , Textile Vision Textile Workers Rehabilitation Fund Scheme 104, 110 textiles and clothing exports see exports Thailand 2, 10, 14 third tier countries 2, 3, 14, 22 30, 34 5 Africa 25 7 Asia and Middle East 23 5 exports 23, 25, 28 GDP 24, 26, 29 Latin America and Caribbean wage rates 24, 27, 29 trade competitive index 50 China clothing sector 49, 51 textile sector 49, 51 trade liberalization 6, 11, 158 Ghana Uruguay trade unions 279 training China 69 Uruguay transaction cost 128 Turkey turning points 13, 27, 30, 31 2, 38, 106, 144 TV Kente Weaving Enterprise 227 unfair trade advantage 99 UNIDO 14, 33 United Bank of Africa 214 United States cotton production 113 Long-Term Arrangement 197 Short-Term Arrangement 197 United States Trade Representative 210 Uruguay 2, 4, 8 9, 12, case studies Hisud SA 8, Paylana SA 8, Pelsa Internacional SA 8, Sirfil SA 8, clothing sector 232,

10 300 Index Uruguay continued competitiveness cost structure coverage ratio 256 employment employment index 253 export firms 260 exports importance of 252 imports 254, 255 informality 254 labour productivity manufacturing share 252 physical volume index 253 production regional orientation index 256 trade mechanisms 260 value added Common External Tariff 239 credit access 250 decline of T&C industry 14 domestic trade policies 249 exchange rate policy foreign market access Free Trade Zone Regime 266 GDP 235 Industrial Promotion Law innovation and training institutions Investment Law 266 investment promotion 250 Mercosur 243, , 256 public industrial policies export promotion incentives for innovation and training investment promotion trade policy textile sector competitiveness cost structure coverage ratio 242, 244 design and product differentiation 248 employment employment index 237 export promotion policies 250 exports 238, 241 3, 244 imports labour costs 247 labour force 247 labour productivity 243, manufacturing share 234 physical volume index 236 production productivity 247 raw materials 247 regional orientation index 242, 244 technology total manufacturing share 235, 238 value added trade liberalization Uruguayan Chamber of Industries Uruguayan Technological Laboratory 262 Uruguayan Wool Secretariat 247, value-added products 15, 178 China 39, 41 Ghana 200, 203 4, 205 Uruguay 234 9, Vietnam 1, 98 voluntary retirement schemes (VRS) 104 wage rates 31 and export performance 14, 20, 24 first tier countries second tier countries 20, 31 2 third tier countries 24, 27, 29 WDI 14, 33 Weiqiao Pioneering Group Co., Ltd 92 Woo, Francois 175, 177, 181 wool 102 woollen textiles World Trade Organization (WTO) 1 China s accession to 70 1 Worldwide Response for Apparel Production (WRAP) 179 Yaoundé Convention 197 Youngor Group Co., Ltd 4, 73 8, 82 3 basic data 74 digitized project and information technology 76 history and orientation 74 6 technological innovation 77 world trade 77 8