Fuselage Assembly All parts are slotted for easier alignment and for plans-free construction. This document is supplemental to the RCGroups build thread to fill in some of the assembly gaps that may not be clear in the build thread. o RCGroups: ERJ-145XR Build Thread 2mm and 3mm Tower Hobbies ProFormance Foam sheets were used on the build. But, this can easily be done with 3/32 and 1/8 balsa. Glue in a 1/8 balsa strip before installing 3 rd fuselage former. Note: the battery bay as-designed requires fairly skinny 4S packs in order to fit. It may be worthwhile at this point to build in a deeper battery tray. Check the RCGroups thread to see how tight the Nanotech 4S 2650 packs fit. If you build in the deeper battery tray, extend it back 1 additional bay from what is currently shown (2 bays) Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 1
Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 2
Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 3
It s recommended to sheet this section next, as it will be easier to prevent any warping having a flat bottom to work with. The fuselage become much more durable after this sheeting is completed. Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 4
You will have to sand the slots of the rear 2 fuselage formers open a bit, as the steep angles will make it hard to slot in these pieces. Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 5
Add ¼ balsa spars for the Nacelles Sheet the nacelle standoffs with 2mm foam. Keep some of the tail un-sheeted until you get all wiring completed. Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 6
Get the servo extensions for the nose steering and retract routed before closing off bottom sheeting Install the forward doubler to align the nose section to the fuselage. The nose is sheeted with 2mm foam, so you will notice this doubler overlaps a bit of the fuselage sheeting. Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 7
After installing the T-tail, nacelles, and all servo and motor wiring, sheet the tail. Planking strips instead of adding curved sections should give a smoother appearance compared to how I did it. Mine came out a bit faceted looking Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 8
It helps to mark the centerline of the belly before you fully sheet the bottom, as it will make aligning the wingbox much easier. Sheet the wingbox with 2mm. You can do 3mm instead if you want it to be more durable. 2mm can be a bit squishy/flexy feeling. Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 9
Inner wing saddle pieces are flush against the floor cutouts. Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 10
Add a 3mm filler strip. It will need to be curled a bit to keep shape with the fuselage. 1/4x1/4x1 balsa pieces glued to inside corners for wing mounting. Recommended to use gorilla glue. Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 11
1 1/8 basswood or plywood with blind nuts. Add 2mm outer wingbox sheeting (or 3mm if you decided on 3mm sheeting for the wingbox in the previous step) See the RCGroups thread with regards to filling the interstitial space between the depron saddles. Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 12
This wingbox section will be glued onto the wing. Completed after wing alignment and saddle is finalized. Plans and instructions are free and not for resale Page 13